Half-truths of a make-believe world | Book Review | The Beauty Paradigm: Gender Discourse in Indian Advertising by Jaishri Jethwaney

By Shivaji Dasgupta

The learned and articulate discourse by Jaishri Jethwaney truthfully depicts a fundamental clash of civilisations— where the transactional world of marketing communications breaks bread with the evolutionary civility of contemporary society. It is a rather uneasy equilibrium at best, and involves actors from diverse platforms with contrasting, if not conflicting, agendas.

When HG Wells rather curtly suggests that “advertising is legalised lying”, he is actually pinpointing the root of the gender inequality that still prevails in the advertising industry, from content creation to organisational cultures. A set of business people with a focused agenda to grow business commissions another set of business people with an equally diligent business agenda, a relationship fraught with a high risk of failure. As an unavoidable outcome, the sensible and sensitive norms of societal cohabitation assume a diminished priority, unless enforced by meaningful regulation, whether self or inflicted. It is important and necessary to understand this context, especially if not exposed to the myriad hues of marketing and advertising.

A valuable hallmark of the book is the foundation of significant references from academia, starting with Immanuel Kant’s work on sexuality, objectification and patriarchy—a rather disturbing reference to the transactional attitude towards a woman, her humanity being reduced to a temporary instrument of pleasure. This abject stereotyping of women is a malaise affecting advertising till date, especially when the agenda is driven by organisations without a global view towards gender sensitivity. The deluge of content in digital media is adding to this dilemma in a curiously contradictory manner—the persistence of prejudice to an evolved millennial audience, as brands are desperate to sell quicker and better. I would agree with the author that while there is significant growth in awareness, the bugs have still not been decimated.

Perhaps, the anchor construct of this discourse is Erving Goffman’s systematic deconstruction of gender advertisements, valid today as much as in the 1960s or 1970s. Relative Size is true in India most certainly and what is most fascinating is its correlation with perceived social weight, the man invariably taller than the lady. Feminine Touch is a technique espoused by many creative narrators, the hand of the man certainly never a credible contender. Function Ranking, where the man has a visible power distance vis-a-vis the woman is a construct still applied by even erudite brands. Rituals of subordination, especially in the family situation, are often integrated in scripting, while patriarchy will continue in advertisements as long as it stays in society. Objectification remains a nagging vice, as a tool for attraction, and the brand is usually the intended recipient.

But there is a silver lining in all this, as suggested by the author in her painstaking analysis across categories, from FMCG to automobiles. We are today sensing a shift towards greater sensitivity, a movement led by the MNCs as well as the new-age startups, the latter sincerely influenced by global cultures. In fact, smart marketers are gaining viral social currency through championing equality, and this is now opening up the fresh debate of tokenism.

Learned folks suggest that the attitude of opportunism still persists in corporations and agencies, just that the route map has changed. From depicting women as objects, the narrative now demands a compelling role reversal, the disruptive latter often remaining in the two-dimensional confines of the TV set and not being reflected in holistic practices, as company and brand.

Which now brings me to the company brand, a crucial subject handled with exceptional depth demonstrated across the chapters, including the game-changing MeToo movement, which shattered not just careers but myths as well, that the creative workspace had, indeed, developed in terms of inclusive mindsets. As an alumnus of the advertising industry, I can resonate with the anguish, as apparent from the data and anecdotes, as the equivalent of the casting couch still persists. However, I do not quite acknowledge the correlation between the objectification in creative content and creative work cultures, as I do believe that the latter exists in multiple industries, unconnected to linear outcomes. This pattern in agency offices emanates from a toxic hangover of the Madison Avenue myth, where lengthy lunches over endless martinis camouflage the grim realities of business.

This, too, will quickly pass as new-age leaders and their followers realise that such professional misdemeanours are damaging to career and reputation, leading to organic adherence. The other point made adequately is the limited representation of female talent in creative industries and this, truthfully, must be evaluated more deeply. Because, the real debate is not about entry-level or even mid-level representation, but transition to the CXO profiles. But that must be reserved for another day.

A googly in the piece is the part on metrosexual men, a pattern we are now well familiar with, across categories. At one level it represents a softening of petty masculinity, and there is no doubt on this front, but whether this will lead to greater sensitivity toward women is another conversation altogether. It is certainly true that this movement is a step in the right direction in terms of building sustainable bridges, which will hopefully lead to defining action. An area that has been touched in part is celebrity endorsement and that is yet another potential minefield, for the debate between personal values and professional opportunities must come to the fore. Thankfully, this too is showing signs of reversal, as today’s youth icons recognise that an ill-advised endorsement can lead to significant long-term damage.

Lastly, the book also lists the progression of legislation, both regulatory and voluntary, and its contribution to building a cleaner environment of gender sensitivity. This is a crucial aspect, most certainly, as good behaviour often begins with the visible censure of bad behavior, as a believable deterrent and curing agent. I do believe that ASCI has just touched the tip of the iceberg in terms of performing its role, and this, in tandem with higher global exposure and education, will drive the change. Like in every other subject, the youth remain the source of much hope as consumers and creators of advertising, for they are surely blessed with a cleaner moral fabric and an intuitive adherence towards equality.

I must end just as I had started, by commenting on the mammoth gap between the levels of discussion—the societal high ground of gender sensitivity and the competitive world of brand marketing. In an increasingly challenging business environment, the pressure to be professionally seductive often overrides the native value system and therein lies the root of much conflict. There is no single right answer but Jaishri Jethwaney’s The Beauty Paradigm is surely the single most effusive and evocative narrative I have read on this matter.

Shivaji Dasgupta is an independent brand consultant and writer

The Beauty Paradigm: Gender Discourse in Indian Advertising
Jaishri Jethwaney
SAGE Publishing
Pp 268, Rs 550